Builder Gel Is Back: How to Apply an Overlay in 7 Steps

Builder gel · 7 steps · overlay on natural nails

Builder gel is a thick gel that adds structure to the natural nail. Brush on a thin layer, build a small apex, file smooth, add color and seal. Cre8tion makes it in brush-on bottles and in jars.

1. 1

   Prep the nail

   Push back the cuticle, buff the shine off the nail and wipe away dust. Dehydrate with pH Bond, then brush on a thin coat of Foundation Primer + Bond and cure.

   TipA clean, dry nail plate gives the builder something to grip.

2. 2

   Pick bottle or jar

   The 0.5 oz brush-on bottle has the brush built in. Jar builder, like Low Heat 04 Porcelain, is a thick gel that self-levels, so you apply it with your own brush.

   TipNew to builder gel? The Bottle Starter Kit includes prep, base, top coat and three shades.

3. 3

   Brush on a thin first layer

   Spread a thin layer from just off the cuticle to the free edge. Cap the edge and cure under your LED lamp, following the label.

   TipKeep gel off the skin and the sidewalls so it cures cleanly.

4. 4

   Build the apex

   Place a small bead of builder at the center of the nail, where the nail needs the most strength. Tilt the hand so the gel levels toward the cuticle and the free edge, then cure.

   TipHold the hand still for a few seconds so the gel levels before you cure.

5. 5

   File smooth and shape

   Lightly file the surface to even out any ridge, shape the free edge, and wipe away the dust with a lint-free wipe.

   TipFile from the cuticle area toward the tip for an even finish.

6. 6

   Add color

   Use a tinted builder such as 04 Pink Cloud Over Paris or 11 Biscotti Cream for a color overlay, or layer a gel color on top of clear. Cure each coat.

   TipApply color in thin coats and cure each one.

7. 7

   Seal and finish

   Seal with Diamond No Wipe Top Coat, cure, and finish with cuticle oil.

   TipMatte look? Use Super Matte Top Coat instead.

Brush-on bottle builder

0.5 oz bottles with a built-in brush. Listed as HEMA free, TPO free and very low heat.

01 ClearMSRP $10.95

04 Pink Cloud Over ParisMSRP $10.95

28 Morning MistMSRP $10.95

Jar builder

Low Heat, HEMA free and TPO free jar gels. A thick, workable consistency that self-levels.

Clear 2ozMSRP $21.50

01 Snow WhiteMSRP $16.95

11 Biscotti CreamMSRP from $16.95

Starter kits

Builder/Overlay Gel Bottle Starter KitMSRP $68.00

Builder Gel Jar Starter KitMSRP $96.50

Builder Gel in Tube Starter KitMSRP $83.95

Prep and finish

Nail Prep PH BondMSRP from $8.25

Foundation Primer + Bond (Base) 0.5ozMSRP $10.95

Diamond Soak Off Gel No Wipe Top Coat 0.5ozMSRP $7.25